First Up in the 2011 Garden

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Asparagus Seedlings

Asparagus Sprouts

My friends at Common Ground Garden Supply may have shaken their heads at me a bit when I told them we were starting asparagus from seed.  Apparently most people get dried-out, nasty looking year-old roots, soak them in warm water for several hours to rehydrate them and somehow configure the poor, spidery things over a cone of soil, bury them over the winter and hope for the best come spring. I actually tried this! But, no luck. The year-old ‘Mary Washington‘  roots from Yamagami’s didn’t take. I lost the year I would have gained by starting with year-old roots waiting for dead roots who had no intention of sprouting into asparagus ferns. So, when I saw the heirloom ‘Precoce d’Argentuil‘ asparagus seed, I figured it couldn’t  go any worse than the roots had.

First-Year Asparagus Ferns

First-Year Asparagus Ferns

In fact, it went well, I guess. The seeds sprouted. The seedlings grew slowly but by fall they were big enough to set into their composted horse manure amended permanent bed. The stems are fairly spindly, but all asparagus ferns are like that, aren’t they? This picture was taken around Thanksgiving, just before our first frost,  so I think it’s normal that the ferns were starting to yellow. I had expected them to start dying down before then. The books say to clip the dried ferns in the fall but these young’uns were still pretty green at Thanksgiving, so I left them standing where they were.

I checked in on them on New Year’s Day, thinking it would finally be time to clip off the old ferns and clean the bed up a bit, and here’s what I found.

Winter asparagus

Eat It or Leave It?

The first year after the roots are in their permanent bed, you are supposed to take nothing. Let the spears that form grow into ferns to feed the roots. The second year after they’ve been in the ground, you can take any spears that form thicker than a pencil for something like a few weeks. This monster is as thick as a Sharpie, and year-one in the ground or not, I’m thinking about eatin’ him.

Got any recipes that call for a single asparagus spear?

My Little Seed Data-Bank

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In my quest to achieve new heights of garden nerdom, I have begun to compile a database of the seeds I am planning to use for 2011.   The first 122 hopefuls are listed by seed source, type, variety, year the seed was packaged for and any comments I have to add from previous years of growing them. Most of the seed is open pollinated, from small operations owned and run by actual people wherever possible. Some of the seed I purchase from a couple different sources so I can compare how each performs in the garden under our growing conditions.

Seed to Seed

I’m growing open-pollinated seeds from Bountiful Gardens and Adaptive Seeds because I like the idea that I could save seed from year to year and eventually end up with a variety that has adapted to perform better in this area in the ways that matter to us. My mother-in-law handed down some of the family fava bean seeds to me this Christmas Eve. They have been adapting to growing in our Zone 9b location for at least 35 years, and to growing in nearby Santa Cruz for several generations before that.

The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization estimates that 75% of agricultural crop diversity was lost during the 20th century. Think about that for a minute. The climate is changing at the same time the diversity of crops we are going to need to meet the challenge of that changing climate is being lost. Farmers all over the world used to save their own seeds, seeds that adapted to the local conditions, just like my in-laws saved their favas and basil seeds. But now enormous amounts of seed diversity are being lost and huge corporations are controlling, patenting and hybridizing seed resources. 25% of the world’s seed supply is already controlled by just three agro-chemical corporations. I think they can manage without the seeds growing in my yard too.

 

Hybrid vs. Open-pollinated


The December Garden

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Yacon Flowers

The tasty tubers are much bigger than the bright flowers

I apologize if it sounds a little sad to say that the yacon plant’s reward for making these sweet little flowers was that we ripped it out of the ground, ate it’s tubers and cut it’s roots into five separate sections before replanting them.  I couldn’t help it. It was delicious. Yacon, also called “Bolivian Sunroot,” has a crisp, fruity tuber that ads a satisfying crunch to salads and can be prepared a number of different ways. I bought this one on a lark from Pam Peirce when she was visiting Common Ground. Now that I have tasted them, I hope to have a stand of five plants next year. They can get as tall as 6′ and should make a nice visual break between the front garden beds and the street.

Red and green tomatoes in December

Glacier Tomatoes ripening in December

I brought in the last of the peppers, eggplant and Armenian cucumbers right after Thanksgiving. If you had to eat out of the garden right now in mid-December, you could have spinach, kale, chard, arugula, lettuce, green onions, a couple snap or snow peas, mustard greens, broccoli, cabbage (the loose leaf kinds anyway), rutabagas, turnip greens, chicory, sorrel, radishes, rosemary or thyme, and tomatoes. Seriously. I have tomato plants flowering and setting fruit, in December. I put the ‘Glacier‘ tomatoes my mother-in-law sent over in large pots, uncovered so pollinators could get to them, on the patio set against a south-facing wall. It’s a cozy spot, sure, but we had frost for days running a week or two ago. These tomato plants do not care. And who am I to argue?

Seed flat

Keep 'em coming

This week the plan is to set out transplants we have grown of more arugula, chard, kale, Osaka Purple mustard, Chinese asparagus, winter leeks and mesclun mix. And to seed new flats of rutabagas and spinach. If I get to it before the rains come back, I’m going to try a stand of Alderman shelling peas near where I put in the Green Beauty snow peas. They aren’t in a well protected spot, but last year I had both snow and snap peas grow right through the winter. Frost got some of the pods, but the plants survived and flowered again.

All the weather folks keep telling me to expect an unusually wet and cold winter, which sounds an awful lot like the summer we just had, but I’ll believe it when I see it. Yesterday it was 65 degrees. Those tomatoes were probably sweating. ;-)

What I’m Doing Differently Since Taking “Edible Gardening”

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This year I was lucky enough to be part of “The Edible Garden Series: From Design to Harvest” through Common Ground in Palo Alto taught by Drew Harwell. And there are a lot of things that I’ll be doing differently now that I have completed this class.

First, and perhaps most revealing, I’ll be growing–am already growing–a lot more food in the same garden space that I started with. Not only do I understand inter-cropping and plant rotations better, but plant spacing makes a lot more sense to me and I’ll be using a lot less of it in between my plants, especially my winter crops, than I have in the past. Column H of the Master Charts in “How to Grow More Vegetables” is finally useful to me! Yay!

Seed Flat KitAnd I’ll be starting those plants in flats. I used to start seeds in old yogurt containers, left-over six-packs from the garden center, old plastic cups…pretty much anything that was handy and could be recycled into something that held dirt. But seed flats hold a *lot* more soil than a six-pack, and hold it deeper than a six-pack. It stays moist and at a more even temperature and your seedlings grow up much healthier. I have no idea why this never occurred to me before, but as soon as Drew talked about it in the first week of our class, it all made sense and my seedlings are certainly thankful for it. Now I just need one of those little scoop tools to help with transplanting.

Kangaroo Rat

California Kangaroo Rat

Those new flats will be filled with 50% “bed soil” and 50% compost that I am now making right here at home with confidence and success. I’ve tried a lot of different composting methods over the years.  Some of them ended up smelly, some of them ended up taking forever to break down and one of them had an entire family of kangaroo rats who leaped out of it right at us when we opened the container to turn it!

No more. One of the things that’s different around here is the compost piles are now open. No expensive bins or crazy spinning systems or awkward compost turning tools required. We are building 4′ x 4′ piles with alternating layers of ‘green’ material, ‘brown’ material and bed soil. And we are turning them once, after they have gotten up to or beyond 135 degrees. The first pile has already cooked up to this point and been turned. The second one is piled right over where I hope to dig a new bed in the spring to help prepare and improve the soil while it decomposes over the rainy season.

This is also my first season of cover cropping. I have ‘Medic Mix’ from Territorial Seed Company in three of the raised beds, cereal rye in one, the Common Ground ‘Cover Crop Mix’ in another and a healthy stand of fava beans already going. These are the first crops I have grown specifically “for the soil” and I am feeling good about the process. Cover cropping is another thing from this class that now really makes sense to me. Some of these crops will be chopped under as a green manure before the spring planting happens, and some of them will end up in a compost pile. Either way, I like the idea that there are crops for us to eat and crops to feed the soil that ultimately feeds us.

Asparagus SeedlingsMy garden is now more forward looking in other ways too. Not only do I understand where the prevailing winds come from and where the afternoon sun hits the garden. I have learned a lot about planning the garden as it moves through time. For instance, there are more perennial edibles now in place or in progress. We have started our first Pigeon Peas, experimented with Chayote squash, put in an asparagus patch for plants started at home from seed, added several kinds of berries and learned how to be better to the fruit trees. And this is only a fraction of what Drew covers in the series!

Keep an eye out for the Spring Edible Gardening Series. The class is a great investment of your time and easily pays for itself with the increased yields you’ll rapidly see in your garden.

A New Start for Fall

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Some New Favorites

We learned a lot from the Fall Greens Trial this year, including:

  • Mice like collard greens seedlings even more than they like yellow tomatoes
  • The humans around here do not like ‘Runway’ arugula, no matter how well it sprouts and grows
  • ‘Osaka Purple’ mustard is quite possibly the stuff wasabi is made from and should not be chomped in the garden by the unsuspecting. (How bad can drinking out of the hose really be? It was an emergency!)

Starting on August 12th, we tried two varieties each of chard, mustard, arugula, collards and kale. For each variety, we started half the seeds in pots and the other half were direct seeded.  Direct seeded ‘Italian’ arugula was the first to sprout, a full 24 hours ahead of the same variety in a six-pack and both the direct seeded and the potted ‘Runway’. During the course of the trail we have come to believe that seeding fall arugula in Northern California is not a challenging task, no matter where you put it. ;-)

Ready for Cinderella

In our trials, ‘Improved Dwarf Siberian’ kale beat out the ‘Nero di Toscana’ which barely sprouted at all in the heat.  The thing is that I like the lacinato kale, so I am trying ‘Nero di Toscana’ again right now, half a flat of it, in the cooler temperatures. The ‘Mangold Witerbi’ chard has done slightly better than ‘Orange Fantasia’ but both are strong and delicious now. The spoon mustard seed was disturbed in its six-pack and didn’t sprout at all in the ground, but the ‘Osaka Purple’ came up with nice wide leaves with a beautiful green and purple mottled color and plenty of taste!

The ‘Georgia Southern’ and ‘Green Glaze’ collards were not nearly as accommodating. Potted ‘Georgia Southern’ sprouted first, though germination was thin for both varieties, under both conditions. And once the sprouts began to fill out beyond their seed leaves, all the direct seeded ones were quickly munched to the ground by some vile rodent nesting in the nearby ‘Star’ Jasmine. Probably a relative of the same evil pest who turned my ‘Lady Govida’ pumpkin into Cinderella’s carriage.

A brazen infestation of diurnal rodents was certainly not in the summer gardening plan this year, but they came anyway, bringing their friends and relatives. My daughter saw as many as six individuals at once stealing yellow, red and even green tomatoes in broad daylight. I cut back the jasmine. I planted catnip. I put out peppermint plants, tea and oil. My daughter tested a number of different home-designed traps, all to no avail. Easily half of the tomato crop and a fair number of green beans were lost to them before the Iowa farmer living next door put an end to the “nonsense” with D-con bait and peanut butter. I’m not saying it’s my idea of a perfect solution, but I’m also not saying I’m not grateful to have the population culled a bit. Now maybe I can sprout a pea plant without having it ripped up and eaten before it even spreads it’s seed leaves!

Hubbard Squash

A Mother of a Hubbard

I know some of the neighbors were probably laughing when they realized I had trellised my ‘Sugar Hubbard’ squash. But, for the record, they held just fine. Because of slow growth in our unusually cool spring weather, I held each of the trial vines to one squash, 7 and a half pounds and just over 5 pounds, with no tearing in the netting and nice strong necks. I can’t wait to try them to see if we like Hubbard squash. Let me know if you have a favorite recipe.

I put one ‘Waltham Butternut’ under green mulch this afternoon to try to keep it going farther into the fall, but all the other squash are done for this year. If the green mulch works, I plan to start melons, cucumbers and squash under it next spring, just in case. I want to be more prepared if we find ourselves standing around next May wondering when it’s going to warm up so I am testing several different kinds of season extenders this fall.

Though it looks a bit like spring with the overgrown summer crops disappearing into the compost pile and bare ground showing again as the garden switches over to rutabagas and radishes, broccoli and beets, carrots, cauliflower and collards. Salad greens are in alongside Asian mixes and thin strips of onions and garlic separate patches of this from patches of that.